NO POWER,DEAD WONT MOVE,NO LIGHTS AT ALL
1) You have a power issue,You have lost power..If this is a new or used cooler,your batteries could be completly bad and you should go below to "are my batteries bad" area but if this is out of no where then you have a issue listed below for sure..Check all your battery connections and make sure the connection is tight and the wires are connected good..Every cooler has at least 2 batteries,they can be stacked on top of each other...
2) The next most common issue is the motor and battery plastic connectors,they melt or deform..Unplug each one and look for melting or black burnt residue,I suggest useing butt connectors on the motor to controller/ECM wires and the battery to controller/ECM wires..If one is melted or not connected or questionable,fix it..
3) If all your connectors are good then check the back of the breaker switch,your wire thats soldered on could have came off or is not making contact,always wiggle and watch for lights because the heat shrink hides the issue..You can bypass the breaker by unplugging both wires going into the breaker and plugging them into each other (they are made to fit and bypass the breaker)..If it works when bypassed then your connection is bad or the breaker itself is..
4) Check your on/off switch it could be bad,unplug the 3 wire connector for the on/off that goes into the controller and on the controller end of the connector touch the red and red/white wires together with the use of a wire..If the throttle powers up,your switch is bad and I suggest my key kit with taillights as ive seen bad on/off switches burn up controllers.
5) If you still have no lights and no power you have failed :)..Repeat all steps above untill you find the issue because you have a power issue..Get a volt meter then call 941-404-5915
ON/OFF LIGHTS UP BUT THE THROTTLE DONT
1) Check the back of the on/off switch and make sure the wires are connected,one side can come off allowing it to light up but not power the controller,check the 3 pin connector for the on/off switch where it goes into the controller/ECM..
2) Check the 6 pin connector going to the ECM/Controller..One of your wires from your throttle could not be connected,check it over real good..The top 3 and bottom yellow are your throttle wires Black, Red,Green and yellow
3) If still nothing,then your throttle is bad but if you have a friend with a cruzin cooler you could pull up next to his no matter what size it is and unplug his throttle and plug it into your controller and see if it turns on..
ON/OFF DONT LIGHT UP BUT THE THROTTLE DOES
1) Your ground on the on/off is not grounding or your on/off light is burnt out...
THROTTLE LIGHTS UP BUT IT WONT MOVE..
1) You need to make sure your 6 pin plastic connector is connected and all wires inside are touching and that no wires have came apart from the connector or have pushed out or to the side,unplug and do a real good inspection...4 wires come in from the throttle and 2 from the brake switch..
2) Remove the other 2 wires coming from your brake switch that goes to your 6 pin connector (red and black) these wires are used to stop the motor when the brakes are applied,the switch could be shorted out inside the brake handle and by removing them it will open the circuit..
3) Sounds like your ECM/Controller is bad but theres a slight chance its the throttle so if you have a extra cooler you can pull up next to it, no matter what watt it is, and unplug the throttle and plug it into your controller and see if it now runs or you can use a small jumper wire and do this---with the throttle plugged in and your cooler lifted off the drive wheel and the on/off switch on-jump the red and green wires(touch them together at once) if the cooler motor starts running then it is your throttle that is bad and not your ECM.
4) You can check your motor by unpluging the power and motor wires going into the controller and running the power direct into the motor (make sure its tilted off the power wheel side)..Remember the motor will run off 12 volts so just because it runs does not mean your batteries are good.
ARE MY BATTERIES DEAD?
I have seen brand new batteries and new coolers come with bad batteries,most of the time its the 300 watt or the 1000 watts as they use the same small cheap batteries..Remember if you replace only 1 battery with a new one the old battery will bring the new battery down to its power level in time.
You will need at minimum a volt meter.
Check Charger Output First
1) Always plug the charger into the cooler first then plug it into the wall,it should go from red to green...If it stays green then your batteries or your charger are bad..
2) First check that your charger is putting out more volts than needed
300 & 500 watts-24 volts +
750 watt - 36 volts +
1000 watt - 48 volts +
With a volt meter you simply plug the charger into the wall and put your volt meter into the top 2 holes to the right and left of the smile/spot missing so it slides properly into the cooler..#1 & #3 if you look at the front of the port.
3) If your charger is showing proper volts then you need to also check the volts going into the the controller by unpluging the 2 pin connector for the charger at the ECM/Controller and plug in the charger and CAREFULLY check the voltage at that connection,do not touch each other or your going to make a big spark and possibly a mess..If you have voltage coming out of the charger but not after the charging port than your charging port has issues..
Next Check Battery Power..
1) If you have full power on the throttle and then it dies slowly in a hour or so then your batteries are going bad and I suggest our deep cycle batteries..
2) If you have full power but it turns red right away you could have one or both batteries dead and unless they are fairly new I suggest replacing both because if you replace only 1 the new one will be slowly drawn permantly down to the level of the weakest battery..If they are fairly new then you can use the volt meter to see which one seems lower than the other sitting and under load..Each battery fully charged should reach 13.4-13.8 volts,if its in the 12s or 11s then you have a issue.
3) Remember,depending on weight,ground grade and load the yellow light can come on at take off but it should go away after your moving..You can upgrade to my dead,25%,50%,75%,100% throttle that monitors it much better..
Thottle lights up then slowly fades out to nothing
You have a short in your breaker switch or battery wires,,with the cooler on go around and wiggle things untill the throttle lights up and theres the issue..
Cooler just took off and wont shut off
You just had "Crazy mode"..First off im sure you have a great story and ive heard many,,sometimes it can happen when its by itself in the garage..It can only be 2 things..Unplug the throttle,if it still goes full throttle,its your controller/ECM..If it stops then your black wire came out,has a short or your throttle is bad..
Throttle lights up but it barely moves
If your batteries are tested and good and your 100% sure of this,you have a bad controller..I have seen this many times,people order new batteries only to find the controller was wore out and it can lead you to think its the batteries so if you have 25.6 volts or better going into the controller and it dims to low battery and moves slow,,it can be and most likely is the controller..of course test the motor to make sure its not barely moving when the batteries go direct to it..
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