HAVE SCOOTER ISSUES? PLEASE READ EVERYTHING BELOW AND YOU WILL FIND THE ISSUE.

          Razor Scooters with issues please read and diagnose, if you cant find your issue you can call for support but its $10 on venmo and have a multimeter handy and 2 small jumper wires but if you check everything below you will find the issue.

A 24 volt system should read over 25volts and will not run under 20volts and realisticly should never be below 12 volts each battery and 13.8 full.

A 36volt system should read over 38 volts and will not run under 31 volts and should not be under 12volts each battery and 13.8 full.

A 48v system should read over 52volts and will not run under 41.5 volts and should never have a battery under 12 volts and 13.8 each full.

You can not have old batteries and think a 24,36 or 48v charger will charge them, it wont..If batteries sit too long they have to be charged one at a time with a 12v charger.

 If your scooter turns on then lights fades out, you have a loose connection prior to my controller, wiggle your wires all over the place ,with the key on, untill you find it, i see the issue in the factory dirt quad on off switch.

 If the scooter only goes with the charger plugged in then you have lost power prior to controller and the kit works as you can see being it goes with the charger plugged in so now get power, if your batteries are too low the charger wont charge them and it may need a one at a time charge with a 12v charger then put back in series and while you got them out you need to load test them one at a time by running the battery directly to the motor and make sure each battery by itself runs it.

 If it wont go at all but you have lights on throttle then unplug the brake switch coming from brake handle as these go bad and wont allow power to motor as it thinks your hitting the brakes.

 If it goes wide open with key on, check your throttles wires, make sure all pins are in and none are bent, i see this daily. Its normally the black wire not making contact or is pushed out or the red and green are bent into each other.

No power-Dead wont move-No power at all.

1) You have a power issue,You have lost power..If this is a new or used scooter,your batteries could be completly bad and you should go below to "are my batteries bad" area but if this is out of no where then you have a issue listed below for sure..Check all your battery connections and make sure the connection is tight and the wires are connected good..Every cooler has at least 2 batteries,they can be stacked on top of each other...

2) The next most common issue is the motor and battery plastic connectors,they melt or deform..Unplug each one and look for melting or black burnt residue,I suggest useing butt connectors on the motor to controller/ECM wires and the battery to controller/ECM wires..If one is melted or not connected or questionable,fix it..

3) If all your connectors are good then check the back of the breaker switch,your wire thats soldered on could have came off or is not making contact,always wiggle and watch for lights because the heat shrink hides the issue..You can bypass the breaker by unplugging both wires going into the breaker and plugging them into each other (they are made to fit and bypass the breaker)..If it works when bypassed then your connection is bad or the breaker itself is..

4) Check your on/off switch it could be bad,unplug the 3 wire connector for the on/off that goes into the controller and on the controller end of the connector touch the red and red/white wires together with the use of a wire..If the throttle powers up,your switch is bad and I suggest my key kit with taillights as ive seen bad on/off switches burn up controllers.

5) If you still have no lights and no power you have failed :)..Repeat all steps above untill you find the issue because you have a power issue..Get a volt meter then call 941-404-5915 but please only you do all test on this page.

         ON/OFF LIGHTS UP BUT THE THROTTLE DONT

1) Check the back of the on/off switch and make sure the wires are connected,one side can come off allowing it to light up but not power the controller,check the 3 pin connector for the on/off switch where it goes into the controller/ECM..

2) Check the 6 pin connector going to the ECM/Controller..One of your wires from your throttle could not be connected,check it over real good..The top 3 and bottom yellow are your throttle wires Black, Red,Green and yellow

3) If still nothing,then your throttle is bad but if you have a friend with the same scooter you could pull up next to his no matter what size it is and unplug his throttle and plug it into your controller and see if it turns on..

    ON/OFF SWITCH DONT LIGHT UP BUT THE THROTTLE DOES

1) Your ground on the on/off is not grounding or your on/off light is burnt out...

              THROTTLE LIGHTS UP BUT IT WONT MOVE..

1) You need to make sure your 6 pin plastic connector is connected and all wires inside are touching and that no wires have came apart from the connector or have pushed out or to the side,unplug and do a real good inspection...4 wires come in from the throttle and 2 from the brake switch..

2) Remove the other 2 wires coming from your brake switch that goes to your 6 pin connector (red and black) these wires are used to stop the motor when the brakes are applied,the switch could be shorted out inside the brake handle and by removing them it will open the circuit..

3) Sounds like your ECM/Controller is bad but theres a slight chance its the throttle so if you have a extra cooler you can pull up next to it, no matter what watt it is, and unplug the throttle and plug it into your controller and see if it now runs or you can use a small jumper wire and do this---with the throttle plugged in and your cooler lifted off the drive wheel and the on/off switch on-jump the red and green wires(touch them together at once) if the cooler motor starts running then it is your throttle that is bad and not your ECM.

4) You can check your motor by unpluging the power and motor wires going into the controller and running the power direct into the motor (make sure its tilted off the power wheel side)..Remember the motor will run off 12 volts so just because it runs does not mean your batteries are good.

                         ARE MY BATTERIES DEAD?

PLEASE DONT THINK BY RUNNING ALL BATTERIES DIRECT TO MOTOR MEANS THEY ARE GOOD THAT IS SIMPLY NOT TRUE AND SUCH A BASIC THING I HEAR, PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO DO EVERYTHING IT SAYS BELOW.

I have seen brand new batteries and new coolers come with bad batteries,most of the time its the 300 watt or the 1000 watts as they use the same small cheap batteries..Remember if you replace only 1 battery with a new one the old battery will bring the new battery down to its power level in time.

                You will need at minimum a volt meter.

Check Charger Output First

1) Always plug the charger into the cooler first then plug it into the wall,it should go from red to green...If it stays green then your batteries or your charger are bad..

2) First check that your charger is putting out proper voltage

   24v charger (300 & 500 watt coolers) -27 volts +

   36v charger (500 overvolted or 750 watt coolers) - 41 volts +

   48v charger (1000 watt coolers) - 55 volts + NOW on our new 48volt chargers they show NO output until it is hooked up to 4 good batteries so be assured if you bought one from us it was tested.

 With a volt meter you simply plug the charger into the wall and put your volt meter into the top 2 holes to the right and left of the smile/spot missing so it slides properly into the cooler..#1 & #3 if you look at the front of the charger plug that goes to scooter. if its reading good then unplug power from scooter and plug charger into scooters charger port and get a reading at the charger port connection on the controller(dont touch the wires together) making sure its going threw charger port on scooter, if your getting no reading then your port is bad..If it is then keep your multimeter there and unplug charger and plug power back in and get a reading, it should go back to what the voltage is coming into controller unless the controller lost a charger wire inside which you can run your charger port wires direct to the main power wires and charge past the controller which many people do. simply run the little red to the big red power wire and combine and same with the little black from charger port to big black power going into controller.

                      Next Check Battery Power..

1) If you have full power on the throttle and then it dies slowly in a hour or so then your batteries are going bad and I suggest our deep cycle batteries..The AH (amps per hour it can hold) of a battery slowly goes down the more its charged and drained and if they sit for over 3 months you must put a charge on them to knock the sulfation off the plates or they may come back but the runtime will be crap.

2) If you have full power but it turns red right away you could have one or both batteries dead and unless they are fairly new I suggest replacing both because if you replace only 1 the new one will be slowly drawn permantly down to the level of the weakest battery..If they are fairly new then you can use the volt meter to see which one seems lower than the other sitting and under load..Each battery fully charged should reach 13.4-13.8 volts and then after they cool they should NEVER go under 12.4 volts which is resting voltage/empty.

  If your batteries all show over 12.4 then run each battery "1 at a time" direct to motor which will load test the battery (it should run wide open or that battery is bad), you can not do this while in series as the motor will run off 1 battery but the controller will not as it has a low voltage cutoff on each voltage controller..

controller voltage cutoff is as follows

24v= 20.5v

36v= 31.5v

48v= 42v

3) Remember,depending on weight of driver,ground grade or inclines and load the yellow light can come on at take off but it should go away after your moving..You can upgrade to my dead,25%,50%,75%,100% throttle that monitors it much better..

     Thottle lights up then slowly fades out to nothing

You 100% have a short in your breaker switch or battery wires have are loose,,with the scooter on go around and key on, wiggle things untill the throttle lights up and theres the issue..The controller has a cap that holds a small amount of power thats why it sparked when you hooked it up so if you turn it on and it fades to off then the cap is draining and you lost power prior to controller and many people plug charger in and say it runs fine with it plugged in and thats because you get power in 2 ways, threw the controller,small amperage and obviously not meant to drive when plugged in and then threw the batteries higher amperage and obviously made to drive so if you have power all the time while charged but it drops off when unplugged then batteries are completely shot or you have a loose wire 100%

            Scooter just took off and wont shut off

You just had "Crazy mode"..First off im sure you have a great story and ive heard many,,sometimes it can happen when its by itself in the garage..It can only be 2 things..Unplug the throttle,if it still goes full throttle,its your controller/ECM..If it stops then your black wire came out,has a short or your throttle is bad..if the black wire on throttle is not making contact it can do this along with sensor in throttle or magnet in throttle.

           Throttle lights up but it barely moves

 If your batteries are tested and good and your 100% sure of this,you have a bad controller..I have seen this many times,people order new batteries only to find the controller was wore out and it can lead you to think its the batteries so if you have 25.6 volts or better going into the controller and it dims to low battery and moves slow,,it can be and most likely is the controller..of course test the motor to make sure its not barely moving when the batteries go direct to it..